Resurfacing concrete
There are 3 main reasons for re-surfacing concrete.

1.  To enhance the look
2.  To remove trip hazards
3.  To correct water flow

In this case it was to correct water flow.  The paving outside this house would hold about 2 inches of water when the heavy rain came.  Getting out of the house without getting your feet wet was a struggle.

Someone had left a hole in the paving to allow water to drain but it wasn't a real drain and not even a soak-away.  A soak-away is basically a hole filled with broken hardcore. Typically they would be a 1 cubic meter hole.  The hard core is there to fill the hole without preventing water drainage.

I decided that the best way to correct the drainage here was to fit drainage channels that lead into a small soak-away and resurface the concrete to direct the water to it.

I start off by breaking out the area I want to lay the drainage channels in.  At the end I dig a small hole for the soak-away just 1 cubic feet.
This should be ok as its only a problem on a heavy down pour and even if it fills it will only end up on the flower bed and not on the path.
It's also worth noting that this job was done on a tight budget so this was the best job for the funds avaliable.
I forgot to photograph the soak-away...it's under that concrete pad at the end.
All the channels are bedded in sharp sand and cement. At the end of day one it looked like the picture above.

With the drainage channel laid, day 2 starts with coating the surface of the problem patio with SBR.
SBR is a superb bonding and waterproofing additive.
This job can be done cheaper with PVA but SBR is easier to use and mix.
Also the cement with SBR added is less sticky to use than with PVA added.
Cost wise SBR is about twice the price of PVA.
If you are going to lay a layer of cement over an existing patio it is very important to coat the surface and add it to the water before you mix the cement.
If you don't it will almost certainly lift and crumble.
These chemicals will add super bonding properties and flexible properties.
I think I could have got away without using it here as it went on thicker than I expected.
I decided to add a small amount to each mix anyway.
For best results the surface should be wet or tacky, if it's not just add a little more as you go.

Start at one side and use a spirit level to lay a flat bed of concrete with a slight fall to the drain.
You could lay a straight edge to your required level and use it as a guide if you like.

Go around the edges so you end up with something like this.
I decided to do the middle bit on the next day so that access to the front door was still possible. Next day you can walk on the concrete edges.
Normally I would do this all together in one day but I was on my own on this one and mixing by hand.
All the mixes here were done by hand due to sticking problems and mess you get with a mixer.


The mix I used here was 8 shovels full of sharp sand and half a bag of cement.
An easy way to do this is to lay the bag on the sand and saw through it as in the picture.
Take half off and set aside for the next one.

Here you can see I have started to fill the middle.
Use the sides as your level guide.
Tamper the cement with your level or straight edge and keep the tampered pattern, this will give it more grip under foot.
Use a paint brush to feather in the edges

Continue to the end and your job is done.
Here I used just over one tonne of sharp sand and 10 bags of cement.

No more flooding here!

Of course if you don't feel like trying it yourself you can always give BBS a call!!

This tutorial was bought to you by Paul@bbsbuilding.

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